One of the most craptacular papers in the U.S., the New York Sun, issues a note of dissent in the Mad Men love-fest.

More ambitious long-form television was born with AMC’s “Mad Men,” Matthew Weiner’s epic cigarette-smoking contest disguised as a drama about the advertising world of 1960. Like Aaron Sorkin’s ill-fated “Studio 60 on the Sunset Strip,” it started out promisingly but seemed in the end (not that it has ended) to be more compelling as a topic of conversation than as something to actually watch.

Hey! I liked Studio 60! A lot.

Leave it to the Sun to be weirdly wrong-headed about the social commentary aspect as well:

The obsessive attention paid to the amount of imbibing and inhaling going on in the New York of 47 years ago was, in my view, a subconscious acknowledgement that, however injurious the alcohol-and-tobacco culture may have been on an individual level, the gradual banishment of these social lubricants has steadily helped usher in the atomization of society, where cafés are filled with people sharing their secrets with invisible strangers on Facebook while ignoring the person at the next table. In other words, iPhones are the new Marlboros. Just don’t ask anyone if you can bum one off them.

Yep. If only we could smoke like chimneys everywhere we went, we’d all have better social lives and more intimacy. Like the people on Mad Men. /sarcasm